Hair straightening merchandise containing glyoxylic acid are going through rising scrutiny from the French Company for Meals, Environmental, and Occupational Well being Security (ANSES).
At the moment, ANSES defined it was a precautionary measure whereas awaiting the conclusions of an knowledgeable report. The motion was prompted by reviews of extreme opposed reactions in ladies who had been uncovered to those merchandise throughout hair straightening procedures in salons.
“Very extremely possible” hyperlink with glyoxylic acid
In an opinion dated 21 January [1], based mostly on scientific research, the Company considers it “extremely possible” that glyoxylic acid is the reason for these instances of acute renal failure – by passing into the bloodstream by way of the scalp, it transforms into calcium oxalate crystals, damaging the kidney.
ANSES due to this fact urges {that a} danger evaluation be carried out at European degree, “to restrict and even prohibit using this substance”, the content material of which will be as much as 25% in hair care merchandise.
The company additionally requires figuring out different merchandise that would “break down into glyoxylic acid” and “probably launch formaldehyde, a carcinogenic substance, through the hair-heating section.”
After this opinion is communicated by the French authorities, the European Fee might want to seek the advice of its Scientific Committee on Shopper Security (SCCS), the only physique approved to evaluate the need of regulating a substance below European cosmetics laws.
A substance banned in Israel
Thus far, glyoxylic acid has by no means been assessed at EU degree, its use is neither regulated nor restricted.
Nevertheless, hair straightening merchandise containing glyoxylic acid have been banned since 2022 in Israel – “however not these containing derivatives”, mentioned ANSES.
In Israel, from 2019 to 2022, 26 instances of extreme acute renal failure —characterised by signs akin to stomach and decrease again ache, nausea, vomiting, and pores and skin rashes—have been linked to using hair straightening merchandise and attributed to glyoxylic acid.
Just like instances in France, sufferers’ kidney operate returned to regular following rehydration.
Security evaluate
Since ANSES’s experience solely centered on glyoxylic acid, it didn’t determine particular hair straightening merchandise that must be prevented. Nevertheless, the Company “urges entrepreneurs to evaluate the security of merchandise containing glyoxylic acid and the relevancy of precautions to be used contributing to secure use.”
Glyoxylic acid can also be used within the composition of cleansing and furnishing merchandise (it inhibits corrosion) or tanning merchandise.
